General Millipede Care Guide

Millipedes are gentle, fascinating detritivores that spend much of their time burrowing through soil and decomposing plant material. While exact requirements vary by species, this guide covers the basic care suitable for many commonly kept millipedes.

Setup

A secure plastic tub, terrarium, or similar enclosure works well. Floor space and substrate depth are generally more important than height. Front opening enclosures should be avoided as they do not allow for proper substrate depth. Avoid sloping the substrate, it should be at the minimum depth throughout the entire enclosure.

Your millipede's substrate should be as deep as they are long. Their enclosures width and length should be at least 2x your millipede is long. Millipedes may spend long periods underground, especially when molting. Avoid digging them up unless absolutely necessary.



Millipedes can be kept in large groups, with no limit of how many. They can also be kept with other species of same care requirements. Avoid housing them with isopods as they may harm the millipedes while molting, springtails are a much safer option. Millipedes should never be house with reptiles or amphibians.

Suitable Tank Mates:
Springtails
Other millipedes
Plants

Unsafe Tank Mates:
Isopods
Reptiles
Amphibians

Substrate

Substrate is both your millipede's home and an important part of its diet. A nutritious, decomposing substrate is one of the most important parts of successful millipede care.

A good substrate can contain:

• At least 50-70% decayed hardwood and/or quality flake soil
• Decomposed hardwood leaf litter
  

Oak and other suitable hardwoods are commonly used. Avoid soil containing pesticides, fertilizers, perlite, chemical additives, or other potentially harmful ingredients. Avoid aromatic or resinous woods such as cedar and pine. Your millipede's substrate should be mostly wood rot or flake, soil is a filler and does not provide nutrition for your millipedes. 

Keep a generous layer of decomposing hardwood leaves on the surface and replenish them as they are consumed.

Flake soil is the best option for millipedes, and it is quite easy to make, these are some simple guides to make your own.

How to Make Flake Soil - an indepth recipe and guide — Richard's Inverts
Flake Soil Recipe

Moisture & Humidity

Most commonly kept tropical millipedes appreciate a moist but not waterlogged substrate.

Maintain a moisture gradient whenever possible. One portion of the enclosure can remain moister while another is allowed to become somewhat drier, allowing the millipedes to choose their preferred conditions. The substrate should retain moisture without becoming swampy or stagnant.

Humidity requirements vary considerably between species, so research the particular species you are keeping.

Temperature

Many commonly kept species do well around 70–80°F (21–27°C).

Exact temperature requirements vary by species. Avoid overheating the enclosure, particularly when using external heat sources.

If supplemental heating is necessary, use a thermostat-controlled heat source positioned to allow the animals to move away from the heat. Heat mats should only ever be placed on the side of enclosures, never the bottom.

Feeding

For most detritivores, like millipedes, decaying hardwood and leaf litter should form the foundation of the diet.

Supplemental foods can be offered occasionally, including:

• Fesh vegtables
• Fresh fruit
• Fish flakes

Remove uneaten fresh foods before they spoil excessively or attract unwanted pests.

Supplemental foods should not replace nutritious substrate, decomposed leaves, and rotten hardwood.

Molting

Millipedes usually molt underground. Before and during a molt, a millipede may disappear into the substrate for an extended period. Never intentionally dig up a molting millipede.

Freshly molted millipedes are soft and extremely vulnerable. Disturbing them can cause serious injury or death. It is normal for a healthy millipede to remain underground for days, weeks, or even months.

👐 Handling

Millipedes are generally gentle but should be handled carefully.

• Allow the millipede to walk onto your hand rather than pulling it from a surface.
• Keep your hands close to the ground or another surface in case it falls.
• Never grab or squeeze the body.
• Avoid excessive handling.
• Wash your hands after handling.

Many millipedes can release defensive secretions when frightened. These chemicals may stain skin and can irritate sensitive skin, eyes, or mucous membranes. Avoid touching your face while handling them and wash exposed skin afterward.

🧹 Cleaning

Millipede enclosures generally should not be completely stripped and sterilized on a routine basis.

Instead:

• Remove spoiled supplemental foods.
• Remove obvious waste or unwanted mold when necessary.
• Add fresh leaf litter regularly.
• Replace or replenish substrate gradually as it becomes depleted.
• Maintain adequate moisture.

A well-established substrate contains decomposing organic material and microorganisms that are part of the enclosure's ecosystem.

🐛 Breeding

Many millipede species will reproduce naturally when mature males and females are maintained under suitable conditions.

Females generally deposit eggs within the substrate, and juveniles may remain hidden underground when very small.

Deep, nutritious substrate is especially important for breeding colonies. Avoid frequent substrate disturbances when you suspect eggs or juveniles may be present.

⚠️ Important Notes

Care requirements can vary significantly between millipede species. Some require higher humidity, deeper substrate, different temperatures, or greater amounts of decomposed wood than others.

Always research the specific species you are keeping in addition to following this general guide.

Quick Care Overview

Housing: Secure, well-ventilated enclosure
Substrate: Deep, nutritious, moisture-retaining substrate
Staple Diet: Decaying hardwood & hardwood leaf litter
Temperature: Generally 70–80°F
Moisture: Moist with a moisture gradient; never waterlogged
Calcium: Keep available
Handling: Gentle and minimal
Difficulty: Beginner to advanced depending on species