Praying Mantis Care Guide

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Introduction

Praying mantises are fascinating predatory insects known for their impressive hunting abilities and unique behaviors. Most mantids are diurnal, arboreal hunters that rely on excellent eyesight and camouflage to ambush prey.

Mantids come in a wide variety of colors, sizes, and species, ranging from small flower mantises to large giant Asian species. While they are generally less active than some other invertebrate pets, they are highly rewarding to observe and make excellent display animals.

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Enclosure Setup

Most mantids should be housed individually. Even species considered “communal” may cannibalize one another, especially during feeding or molting.

Enclosure size depends on the species and life stage. Smaller species and young nymphs may thrive in containers as small as a 16oz deli cup, while larger species may require enclosures around 12x12x18 inches or larger.

Recommended Enclosure Size

A mantis enclosure should be:

• At least 3 times taller than the mantis is long
• At least 2 times wider than the mantis is long

Because mantids are arboreal, vertical height is more important than floor space. Tall enclosures with climbing surfaces are strongly preferred over wide, shallow setups.

Temperature

Most mantis species thrive between:

• 68°F–78°F

Many species can tolerate:

• 65°F–85°F

If temperatures fall below 65°F, supplemental heating may be needed. A low-wattage heat mat attached to the side or back of the enclosure and regulated with a thermostat is usually sufficient.

Avoid placing heat lamps directly on top of enclosures. Any overhead heating should remain suspended several inches above the enclosure to prevent overheating.

Some advanced species require temperatures near 95°F, though these are generally not recommended for beginner keepers due to their more demanding care requirements.

Ventilation & Decor

Good ventilation is extremely important for mantids, as stagnant air can quickly lead to health issues or failed molts.

Because mantids hang upside down while molting, the enclosure should include a fully mesh top or another suitable climbing surface near the ceiling.

Avoid sharp metal mesh commonly found on some terrariums, as it can damage their feet. Softer mesh materials are safer alternatives.

Simple decor works well, including:

• Fake or live plants
• Branches or twigs
• Cork bark
• Climbing surfaces

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Feeding

Mantids should generally be fed based on abdomen size rather than a strict schedule.

General Feeding Frequency

• Nymphs: Every 2–3 days
• Juveniles: Every 4–7 days
• Adults: Every 1–2 weeks

A mantis with a thin abdomen should be offered food.

Prey items should be appropriately sized and generally no larger than the mantis’s abdomen.

Safe Feeders

Good captive-bred feeder options include:

• Fruit flies
• House flies
• Roaches
• Bottle flies
• Mealworms occasionally

Important Feeding Warnings

Do not feed pet store crickets unless they come from a trusted, clean breeding source. Crickets may carry bacteria, parasites, or diseases that can harm mantids.

Do not feed wild-caught insects, as they may introduce pesticides, parasites, or pathogens. Always use captive-bred feeders whenever possible.

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Molting & Sexing

Many mantis species can be sexed visually at young ages, though abdominal segment counting is the most reliable method for most species.

General Sexing Guide

• Females usually have fewer abdominal segments
• Males usually have more abdominal segments and slimmer bodies

Signs of an Upcoming Molt

Common premolt behaviors include:

• Refusing food
• Hanging upside down in one spot
• Swollen or plump abdomen
• Stretching arms downward

During this time, avoid disturbing the mantis.

After molting, the mantis needs time for its new exoskeleton to harden properly.

After a Molt

Do not:

• Handle the mantis
• Feed the mantis

For at least:

• 24–48 hours after molting

Handling or feeding too soon can lead to injury or failed hardening of the exoskeleton.